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GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS used in Natural Support Creams

GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS

This quick reference Glossary is of INGREDIENTS, an easy way to better acquaint yourself with those things found in creams, lotions, and products related to skin and body care.

Allantoin  (Ureidohydantoin - Comfrey) A non-toxic crystal created by the oxidation of uric acid. Has the ability to help heal wounds, sores and stimulates the growth of healthy tissue. Allantoin is a skin softener and an anti-irritant, which inhibits allergic type responses

Aloe Vera Gel (Aloe barbadensis juice) Expressed from the aloe vera plant which are found mainly in sunny climates. The leaves store large amounts of water. Aloe vera improves hydration is soothing and healing to all skin types. Chemical analysis has shown the presence of mucopolysacharides, a natural moisturizing factor. Aloe vera is composed of water, the enzymes catalase and cellulose, minerals, calcium, aluminum, iron, zinc, magnesium, sodium, 20 amino acids and carbohydrates. Aloe vera also contains the "youth mineral" potassium. Has renown healing properties, anti-inflammatory and can soothe the skin and help heal cuts, grazes, burns and insect bites. In 1500 BC the Egyptian Ebers Papyrus recommended aloe for skin care. The Greeks, Chinese, Roman and Arab herbalist recommended aloe for burns and rashes. In the 1930s a radiologist discovered that aloe vera is effective in treating radiation burns. True aloe vera is watery and thin. The products that you see on the marketplace that are thick have been chemically thickened and highly diluted.

Aloe Vera Oil has softening, healing, anti-microbial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Its moisturizing ability is its most widely recognized characteristics. Aloe vera penetrates the skin, supplying moisture directly to the tissue.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)- Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are commonly found in different concentrations in many products. The most commonly used alpha hydroxy acids are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and tartaric acids. These mild acids serve to remove the outer layer of dull skin and leave skin with a rejuvenated appearance. Some of these acids are derived from fruit sources, particularly citrus fruits, apples and grapes. Some of the alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acid, are found in sugar cane. Others, such as lactic acid, are found in milk. The FDA now requires that any product containing AHA's have the following warning statement: Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.

Ascorbic Acid - Vitamin C, also known the topical vitamin C, is available in many skin care products. Scientific data have shown that Vitamin C will help increase the amount of collagen production in the skin. It is also a natural anti-inflammatory that helps in reversing some of the effects of sun damage to the skin. By increasing the amount of collagen in the skin, the fine lines will be reduced. Vitamin C is one of the many active ingredients to topical agents sold on this web site, and can play a vital role in a regular skin care regimen.

Ascorbyl Palmitate - (Palmitic acid ester - Vitamin C Ester) A salt of ascorbic acid. It is used as a preservative and antioxidant to prevent rancidity. Vitamin C is thought to prevent collagen break down and help combat the signs of aging. As an antioxidant it is believed to remove the free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin. Topical vitamin C may help lighten solar lentigos and melasma. Some studies have shown that topical vitamin C provides additional protection against the harmful effects of the sun. Said to prevent collagen breakdown, which would aid in combating aging. Duke University found that adding Vitamin C and E to sunscreens protects against UVB radiation.

Avocado Oil may mobilize and increase the collagen of connective tissue; given the highest ranking by the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology for sunscreen effectiveness. Avocado oil enjoys the highest penetration rate among similar oils.

Behentrimonium Methosulfate - Conditioning and anti-static agent from natural Colza Oil.

Beta carotene - Also known as pro Vitamin A. This is found in plants and many animal tissues and is what causes carrots to have their orange tint. It is also used as a coloring agent in several cosmetics. It is a precursor to Vitamin A. An excessive amount of beta carotene in the blood can lead to a yellow-red pigmentation of the skin that can be interpreted as jaundice.

Burdock root - Burdock root is a phytoestrogen that helps restore hormone balance and comes from the burdock plant.

Calciferol (Vitamin D) Calciferol is said to have skin-healing properties. Is absorbed through the skin.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride-Medium chain triglyceride derived from coconut oil. It is a clear liquid. It is a low viscosity emollient with exceptional spreading characteristics that provides lubricity and imparts a soft non-greasy feel. It is an excellent vehicle or solvent to deliver active ingredients.

Carrot Oil used since the sixteenth century for skin diseases due to its believed cleansing, depurative, and draining properties. This carotene-rich emollient has been indicated for acne skin conditions, dermatitis, skin irritation, skin rashes, and wrinkles; derived from the carrot root.

Castille Soap - Castile soap was originally 100% olive oil soap. It got its name from the Castile region in Spain. Extremely mild, liquid with water like consistency. Made from olive oil and sodium hydroxide.

Centrimonium Chloride - Mild conditioning and anti-static agent.

Ceramide-Water-holding properties, natural ceramides which are very effective in preventing and restoring dry skin conditions.

Cinnamidopropyl Trimetyl Ammonium Chloride - Sunsreeen protection.

Citric Acid - Widely used in the cosmetic industry. Derived from citrus fruits by fermentation of crude sugars. Used as a preservative and to adjust acid-alkali balance. Citric acid is said to have antioxidant and toning properties. Citric acid is one of the alpha-hydroxy acids. AHA's are used not only to reduce wrinkles but also to brighten your skin. The "new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid (citrus), glycolic (sugar cane), malic (apples), and tartaric (grapes) acids.

D&C Red No 27 - An acid derived from fluorescein (a brilliant red, crystalline dye).  Permanently listed for cosmetic coloring in 1982.  This color is a U.S. Certified Organic Colorant which means that this colorant is produced in accordance with U.S. Government specifications, and are certified for use in accordance with the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. 

D&C Yellow No. 5 - Insoluble Pigment is permanently listed as a color additive since 1966. Rated by the World Health Organization as a 1A, completely safe and acceptable for all nonfood use.  This color is a U.S. Certified Organic Colorant which means that this colorant is produced in accordance with U.S. Government specifications, and are certified for use in accordance with the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. 

D&C Red No. 7 - Permanently listed in 1987 for ingested drug and cosmetic lip products and for general cosmetic uses according to good manufacturing practices.  This color is a U.S. Certified Organic Colorant which means that this colorant is produced in accordance with U.S. Government specifications, and are certified for use in accordance with the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. 

D&C Orange No. 5 - An orange stain permanently listed for external applied drugs and cosmetics in 1984.  This color is a U.S. Certified Organic Colorant which means that this colorant is produced in accordance with U.S. Government specifications, and are certified for use in accordance with the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. 

Dead Sea Salts (Sodium Chloride) Dried salt from the Dead Sea. Sea salt softens the water and can be used for cleansing, abrasive exfoliate and helps draw toxins from the body. Contains minerals from the ocean. People worldwide have used the healing power of salts baths for centuries. The minerals and trace elements deep clean and revitalize the body. That is why in countries everywhere people will come far and wide to bath in hot springs, mineral baths and the Dead Sea because of the unique mineral compositions of each place. The Dead Sea in Israel attracts visitors because it is the lowest point on the earth contains a high percentage of natural minerals. In many countries people with conditions labeled incurable have reduced the symptoms or completely resolved them after being treated with mineral hydrotherapy.

De-ionized Water - Water is the primary ingredient in almost every product used by humans from food and drinks to the cleansing and cosmetic items that we use daily for our personal care. Quality formulations begin with high purity water. Pure water is a very powerful dipolar solvent so that the naturally occurring supply from springs, lakes and rivers always contain some minerals, gases and organic decaying materials which may have adverse affects on manufactured products. In addition to these naturally occurring impurities municipal water systems typically add chlorine, sometimes fluorides, or other chemicals to improve the health and/or safety of the water for human consumption but which also can adversely affect other products that companies manufacture.

There are numerous methods for the purification of water as delivered from public water supplies and it certainly helps if the public system has quality sources for the water they supply. Fortunately we live and work in such an area where some the purest naturally occurring water is available for our consumption and manufacturing.   The three most commonly used methods for water purification are:

1) distillation, the oldest and currently most expensive and least effective
2) deionization, filtration
3) reverse osmosis, high tech and the most modern but more costly than de-ionized process.

We use a combination process designed to achieve the highest form of pure water commercially available. It is a multi-step process which begins with the public water supply in Clackamas, Oregon.  The steps for purifying this water is:

1. Pre-filtration, the incoming water is passed through two 5u (micron) filters to remove most of the non-dissolved solid matter which may be present in the supply system, i.e. silica.
2. Ultra-violet light is then employed to destroy any bacteria that escape the chlorine which the water company adds to make the water safe to drink.
3. The water then travels through a carbon filter bed which removes the chlorine and the organic impurities which may remain from the first two steps.
4. The next two steps are the actual de-ionizing filters which remove all of the ions present, both positive and negative charged particles, i.e. Sodium, Calcium, Iron, Magnesium and others.
5. The water then goes through two more filters each 0.2u (microns) which have the capacity to remove any remaining particles leaving the water in an ultra-pure condition ready for the use in manufacturing high quality products.
6. As a final step the water passes through a purity meter which records the conductivity of the water and assures that the system is working properly. Ultra-pure water is a poor conductor of electrical current so the higher the resistance reading the purer the water. Our water consistently reads 20,000,000 ohms which is about the theoretical maximum for ultra-pure water. Triple distilled water typically only reads about 3,000,000 ohms as a comparison.

Distilled Water (Aqua) Water is the most widely used ingredient in cosmetics. Water is distilled by evaporating and then recondensing it to remove all the minerals, bacteria and other substances. The major component of all living things.

Dimethicone Copolyol Panthenyl Phosphate - Conditioning agent with amino proteins and vitamins. It is a moisturizer sourced from minerals.

Estrogens:  Defining Natural Estrogen can be tricky, as the phrase can be used to refer to one of four substances (3 are endogenous, found within the body; and 1 substance is derived from plants.):  Note:  Premarin is one of the most popular forms of estrogen prescribed for menopausal and post-menopausal women, and it is -considered a natural -estrogen because it is manufactured from the urine of pregnant mares. We maintain it is only “natural” for horses, not humans.

        A.  Endogenous Estrogens – Estrogens found in the body:

·         Estradiol; the principal estrogen before menopause,

·         Estrone, the main estrogen present after menopause, and

·         Estriol - a weaker and safer estrogen created when estradiol and estrone are metabolized in the body.

B.  Phyto-Estrogens – Plant estrogens found in -many plant sources, primarily soy and wild - yam and other herbs (plants).  Phyto-estrogens are not as strong as the other types of estrogens.

Ethyl Alcohol and SD Alcohol is a natural product of fermentation and is included in the formula to increase transdermal absorption of natural progesterone through the skin. It makes up less than 0.5% of the cream and evaporates rapidly from the surface of the skin.

FD&C - means that a color is approved by the FDA for use in Food, Drugs and Cosmetics.  D&C means that a color is approved by the FDA for use in Drugs and Cosmetics.  The FDA requires a batch-by-batch standard be met that the FDA has set for each colorant and has already approved as safe for use.  In order to meet the FDA standards a cosmetic colorant must be tested for “acute oral toxicity, primary irritation, sensitization, subacute skin toxicity on intact or abraded skin and carcinogenicity (cancer causing) by skin application.”  Inorganic colors used in cosmetics include iron oxides, ultramarines, chromium oxide greens and zinc oxide. 

FD&C Blue No.1 - A dye certified by the FDA as safe for use in Food, Drugs and Cosmetics.  Rated by the World Health Organization as a 1A, completely safe and acceptable for all nonfood use.   This color is a U.S. Certified Organic Colorant which means that this colorant is produced in accordance with U.S. Government specifications, and are certified for use in accordance with the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act. We use this dye because the natural alternative creates a sulfurous odor when it comes in contact with water. 

Firming Liposomes - Apple-based ingredient that restores elastin.

Glycerin, Kosher Vegetable - Vegetable Glycerin is obtained by adding alkalies to fats and fixed oils. Glycerin is a soothing, humectant which draws moisture from the air to the skin. Glycerin is an emollient, which makes the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Glycerin has a high hydrophilic (water) factor and a low lipophilic (fat) factor.   Nontoxic, nonirritating and nonallergenic.  Very sweet syrup, about 0.6 as sweet as sugar.  It is a plant source.

Grapefruit Extract is a preservative system, however, we recommend for longer shelf life a combination of mixed parabens. The current shelf life on our cream is two years.  Grapefruit Seed Extract (Citrus grandis) Grapefruit seed extract is made from the dried, ground seeds and pulp of grapefruit. It is a natural preservative, antiseptic, a nontoxic, broad-spectrum antimicrobial. Contains water-soluble bioflavanoids. General sold as 60% glycerin to 40% extract.

Guar Gum (Cymopsia tetrogonoblbus) Made from the ground seed berry tissue of cactus-like plants cultivated in India. It is used as a thickener and has 5 to 8 times the thickening properties of starch.

Honey - Honey is the sweet material taken from the nectar of flowers and manufactured by bees. Used since Egyptian times for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Honey is full of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and enzymes. Has an emollient property, is soothing and humectant. Emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Honey is cleansing and antibacterial. Bacteria cannot live in honey, which demonstrates its natural preservative properties. It leaves a micro thin protective film on the skin.

Hydrated Chrome Oxide Green - Chromium occurs in the earth’s crust.  As a coloring it has been permanently listed for use as a cosmetic colorant since 1977.  Hydrated Chrome Oxide Green is classified as certified purified inorganic colorants.  Which means that they are produced in keeping with the highest standards for purity and have been tested and guaranteed to conform with the specifications set forth for use in drug and cosmetic applications. 

Hydrolyzed Castor Oil - Castor oil is derived from the seed of the castor plant. Hydrolyzed Castor oil has been turned partly into water through hydrolysis.

Hydrolyzed Silk Amino Acid - Silk is a fiber secreted by silk worms. Liquefied silk creates a mixture of amino acids. Amino acids are what the body uses to build proteins. Silk amino acids are said penetrate the skin and leave the skin silky smooth.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein - A protein from wheat which has been turned partly into water through hydrolysis. Proteins are the nitrogen carrying constituents of living cells. Protein treatments are said to be beneficial to hair and skin. They add gloss, body and luster to hair. Proteins consist of giant chains of amino acids, the building blocks of life. The amino acid chains are joined chemically by a peptide bond. Plant proteins have excellent skin compatibility and deposit a protective film on the skin and hair. The film is smoothing and moisturizing.

Iron Oxide - Iron oxides are classified as certified purified inorganic colorants.  Which means that they are produced in keeping with the highest standards for purity and have been tested and guaranteed to conform with the specifications set forth for use in drug and cosmetic applications.  Iron oxides include Yellow Oxide, Red Oxide and Black Oxide. 

lsodecyl Neopentanoate - Non-greasy emollient.

Jojoba Oil - Jojoba oil is a moisturizer extracted from the jojoba plant

Juniper Extract - is a preservative from juniper plants and the juniper berries.

Lauramide Diethanolamide - Foam and viscosity booster. Conditioning agent

Lactic acid - Lactic acid is one of the many alpha hydroxy acids used in skin care products. It is commonly found in milk, pickles, and other foods made by bacterial fermentation. Lactic acid is also the source for painful muscles after over exertion. Some of these creams require a prescription to obtain. These creams and lotions are very helpful at getting the skin to retain moisture. Lactic acid can help reduce the effects of photo aging, and can play an important role in the treatment of sun damaged skin. One should avoid getting them into cuts as this produces pain.

Lanolin, Anhydrous (Ovis aries) Lanolin is secreted from the sebaceous glands of sheep into their wool. Highly emollient, soothing and softening. Absorbs and holds water to the skin. According to the AMA's committee on Cutaneous Health emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. Chemically a wax and not a fat. Extremely effective in preventing water loss from the skin.

Lecithin - Lecithin is derived from egg yokes, soybeans and corn. Has a softening and soothing effect on skin. A natural antioxidant and emollient. Emollients make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce rough feeling, cracking and irritation. Lecithin is made up of many different phospholipids, which occur naturally and are emulsifiers. Phospholipids are a principal component of human cell membranes. Their structures allow special protein molecules to selectively transport ions through membranes. Phospholipids look like triglycerides except that one of the fatty acid chains is substituted by the phosphor compound, phosphate ester. The phosphor compound increases the water affinity of glyceride, giving it the ability to work as an emulsifier.

Lecithin is a super skin restorative agent and moisturizer. It has the ability to penetrate the epidermis and carry substances to the right cell level. They also can form cell-like structures called liposomes. A liposome are formed when a group of phospholipids are placed on the skin; they spontaneously arrange themselves to match their water loving heads together and their oil loving tails together to form a microscopic sphere. These spheres are similar in construction to an actual cell membrane. They are then able to pass through the epidermis and act as a carrier of substances that attach themselves.

Phospholipids in studies were found to be hygroscopic, which means they attract water from the surrounding air and hold hydration in place. They help increase hydration levels in the skin without modifying the water loss rate of the skin. Phosphatidylcholine, which is one component of lecithin has a high percentage of unsaturated fatty acid chains, 70% linoleic acid and 6% linolenic acid. Which in Europe is referred to as Vitamin F. Vitamin F has been found to be critical for fat metabolism and for the release of fat from fatty tissues. A recent German study concluded that linoleic acid one of the most valuable ingredients in cosmetics. The study found that a shortage in linoleic acid increased acne formation. Also they found that the water loss form skin is inversely proportional to the linoleic acid content of the skin.

Lemon Grass Oil is considered astringent and tonic. Lemon grass oil is the volatile oil distilled from the leaves of the lemon grasses.

Manganese Violet - Manganese is a mineral supplement which occurs in minerals.  Permanently listed for cosmetic coloring, including around the eyes in 1976.  Manganese Violet is classified as certified purified inorganic colorants.  Which means that they are produced in keeping with the highest standards for purity and have been tested and guaranteed to conform with the specifications set forth for use in drug and cosmetic applications. 

Menthol Crystals (Mentha arvensis) Gives a cool feeling to the skin and is used as a local anesthetic.

Micronized means "micron" or very, very, very small; "ized" means filtered in this case.  USP ingredients used are the size of microns for greater absorption and effectiveness.

Milk, Powdered (Lactose) Lactose is present in the milk of mammals. Milk leaves the skin feeling silky smooth with a hydrated appearance. An effective and softening skin cleanser. Milk proteins smooth, firm and soften the skin. Milk is high in hydrophilic (water) and lipophilic (fat) factors and has beneficial vitamins and sugars. It has excellent nutritive value, is packed with proteins, beneficial fats, vitamins, amino acids and calcium. It is easily absorbed into the skin. Milk has a long standing in beauty history. Many of the historic beauties testified to milks effectiveness with their faithful use of milk in their beauty regime. Cleopatra took aromatic milk baths, Emperor Nero's wife Poppea bathed in milk and even Marie Antoinette used buttermilk to prevent wrinkles. The "new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid, glycolic, malic, and tartaric acids. These treatments are not new at all. Cleopatra's famous milk baths contained lactic acid, which removed the upper layer of the skin to revel smooth, new skin.

Milk, Goat (Lactose) Lactose from the milk of goats. Goat milk leaves the skin feeling silky smooth. It is and effective and softening skin cleanser. Milk leaves the skin feeling silky smooth with a hydrated appearance. An effective and softening skin cleanser. Milk proteins smooth, firm and soften the skin. Milk is high in hydrophilic (water) and lipophilic (fat) factors and has beneficial vitamins and sugars. It has excellent nutritive value, is packed with proteins, beneficial fats, vitamins, amino acids and calcium. It is easily absorbed into the skin. Milk has a long standing in beauty history. The "new" alpha hydroxy acid skin treatments are simply made up of lactic acid (milk), citric acid, glycolic, malic, and tartaric acids. These treatments are not new at all. Cleopatra's famous milk baths contained lactic acid, which removed the upper layer of the skin to revel smooth, new skin.

Mineral oil - Also known as white oil. This is commonly used in baby lotions and creams as well as in other cosmetic agents. It is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic. This is a petroleum by-product which can clog your pores.  Mineral oil is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons, and not particularly beneficial for any skin type, and yet, because it is cheap and stable from spoilage, is widely used in many skin care products.  

Natural Glycerin is used as a moisturizer and humectant to replace moisture in the skin.

Natural Progesterone derived from Mexican wild yam root or soy. These sterols are processed through several fermentation steps to yield progesterone which is identical to the progesterone which is produced by the human body.  It is the processing mechanism that creates the USP Progesterone molecule bio-identical to the human progesterone molecule.

Octyl Metloxycinnamate - Sunscreen protection.

Oat Amino Acids - Amino Acids derived from oats. Amino acids are what the body uses to construct proteins. They are said to penetrate the skin. Oats are a rich source of vitamins and minerals. Oats are high in amino acids, are a humectant, skin soothing, relieve itching and act as a moisturizer. Proteins consist of giant chains of amino acids, the building blocks of life. The amino acid chains are joined chemically by a peptide bond. Plant proteins have excellent skin compatibility and deposit a protective film on the skin and hair. The film is smoothing and moisturizing.  Oat proteins are anti-inflammatory, anti-itching substances, and antioxidants.

Palmitate (Vitamin A) Palmitate is a mixture of solid organic acids obtained from fats. First isolated in 1909 from egg yolk. Vitamin A is an antioxidant that aids in the removal of free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin. Research shows that vitamin A encourages collagen production in the dermis, which causes the middle layers to plump out and efficiently retain moisture.  It is an emollient and spreading agent that comes from palm oil.

Panthenol (Vitamin B Complex) Good for human tissues, used in skin and hair products. A vitamin B-complex group which provides cumulative conditioning effects after extended and regular use.  It is absorbed quickly by the hair to provide moisture regardless of atmospheric conditions.  Panthenol is a humectant and moisturizer from grains.

Para-Aminobenzoic Acid (PABA-Vitamin B Complex-Approved by FDA) A member of the Vitamin B family. Increases the skin’s resistance to burning and the damage of ultraviolet rays. Found in Vitamin B-complex. Some people are allergic to PABA. Tremendous UVB absorption qualities.

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid - Sunscreen protection.

Phyto-Estrogens – Plant estrogens found in -many plant sources, primarily soy and wild  yam and other herbs (plants).  Phyto-estrogens are not as strong as the other types of estrogens, but studies have been conducted that demonstrate that this a combination of progesterone and plant estrogens may be the safest and most effective form of estrogen for women.

Polyacrylamide/C13-14 & Isoparaffin/Laureth 7 - Thickening agent. Imported from France.  They are plant derived thickeners which makes up less than 3% of the cream. This combination of substances forms an inert polymer that bind the oil and water phase of the cream. When applied to the skin, ionic salts break it down so that it releases the oil and water phase on the surface of the skin. It is classified as non-toxic and hypoallergenic. This unique thickener replaces the more common oil water emulsion utilizing heated fatty acids and waxes which are then neutralized by a strong base.

Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis) Contains antioxidants which are oil soluble. Undiluted it should be thick, sticky and brownish/green. Often sold diluted at 1% in 99% soybean oil. When you purchase that mixture you have well preserved soybean oil, but the properties are destroyed for preserving anything else. Before refrigeration was available people wrapped their meat in rosemary leaves to preserve it. Meats spoil partly because oxidation turns the fats rancid and rosemary retards spoilage. Its preservative value has made it a mainstay in herbal medicine. It is made of oil soluble antioxidant compounds derived from the herb rosemary. As a natural preservative, it prevents rancidity in which vegetable/plant oils have been made. Rosemary Extract is a natural preservative.

Salicylic acid - This occurs naturally in many plants. It can also be synthetically made. It is used externally as an antiseptic agent, as well as an antifungal agent and skin sloughing ingredient. It is commonly used in the treatment for removal of warts in the form of an Occlusal. Salicylic Acid also is currently used for its anti-aging properties in the form of beta hydroxy acids. Naturally occurring in Black Willow Bark, but without the negative effects.

Silk Amino Acids: The mixture of amino acids resulting from the complete hydrolysis of silk. The principal amino acids contained within are glycine, alanine, and serine. Their low molecular weight indicates that the molecules can penetrate the cuticle in undamaged hair as well as the surface layer of the epidermis. Silk amino acids improve skin and hair with regard to feel and gloss, and have a moisturizing effect due to their water-binding properties.

Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) Cleans, deodorizes, softens and absorbs moisture. Leaves skin feeling silky smooth in bath preparations. Balances pH level and alkalinity. Soothing and relieves itching.

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate - Plant-based thickening agent.

Sodium C 14-16 Olefin Sulfanate - Mild surfactant eliminating sodium laurel sulfates.

Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids & Potassium Vitamin C, Vitamin A & Lavender - Antioxidants with skin repairing and toning properties.

Sorbitol - Occurs naturally in ripe berries, cherries, plums, pears, apples, seaweed and algae. Used in hair and skin products as a humectant, a binder and because it gives skin and hair a velvety feeling.

Stearal Konium Chloride is one of the principal constituents of bentonite clay used in face masks because of its properties as a suspending agent.  Its source is PLANTS from cottonseed.  We do NOT use stearal konium chloride in our formulas.

Stearic acid, also called octadecanoic acid, derives from from vegetable saturated fatty acids. This emulsifier comes from cottonseed oil.  It is a waxy solid, and is used as a suspending agent.  Stearic acid is useful as an ingredient in making cosmetics. Reduction of stearic acid yields stearyl alcohol.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E) Acts as a free radical scavenger, hinders the oxidizing process in the skin and promotes soft and supple skin. As an antioxidant it defends the skin. Helpful in reducing scars and promotes healing. Acts as a natural preservative for products. Obtained by the vacuum distillation of edible vegetable oils. Vitamin E oil is an emollient. According to the AMA's committee on Cutaneous Health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. As an antioxidant it is believed to remove the free radicals that cells produce. Free radicals have been associated with skin cancer and premature skin aging due to sun exposure. Some experts believe antioxidants are the most vital weapons in the fight against aging. Most of the damage of our skin is caused by a free-radical assault from smoke, pollution and UV rays. Free radicals then turn the oils of our skin rancid, which damages the collagen. Collagen is the protein fibers that serve as the building blocks of our skin. Antioxidants are used in skin care products to neutralize free radicals before they ravage the skin.

Titanium Dioxide - This is used in cream that blocks the sun’s rays wherever it is applied. It is also commonly found in makeup and white melt & pour soap bases, but not in a strong enough concentration to act as an effective sunscreen. Initially, titanium dioxide was difficult to apply, but now with new micro-encapsulation technology, it has become a very effective sun blocking agent.

Turbinado Raw Sugar (Sucrose) Known as a demulcent, which is a substance used to relieve pain in inflamed or irritated mucous surfaces. A simple organic exfoliating material. This is crystalizable sugar from the first step of refinement. It has a tan to brown color from the residual impurities.

USP means United States Pharmacopeia and it is the quality standards-setting authority for pharmaceuticals and health care products.  Ingredients meet the very high standards to be called USP following the FDCA Federal Food Drug and Cosmetic Act.

Vitamin A Palmitate is known as a skin "normalizer." It acts as an anti-keratinizing agent, helping the skin stay soft and plump. Clinical studies with vitamin A palmitate indicate a significant change in skin composition with increase in collagen, DNA, skin thickness, and elasticity. Vitamin A palmitate's stability is superior to retinol and comes from beta carotene.

Vitamin E is considered the most important oil soluble antioxidant and free radical scavenger. As a moisturizer, vitamin E is well absorbed through the skin.

Vitamin E Acetate - Antioxidant and free radical scavengers with multiple abilities for repairing and nourishing skin, preventing cell damage and the formation of free radicals. Retards aging and may help prevent age spots.  It is considered the most important oil soluble anti-oxidant and free radical scavenger. Its primary purpose in the formulation is to protect the natural progesterone from being oxidized. As a moisturizer, vitamin E is well absorbed through the skin.

Witch Hazel - This is a very common ingredient in various cosmetics and is used as a local anesthetic and astringent. It is made from the twigs and leaves of Hamamelis Virginiana. Witch hazel commonly purchased contains 15 to 20% ethyl alcohol or is left in its original steam distilled form.

Xanthan Gum (Polysaccharide gum) Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide (natural sugar) fermented from corn sugar. Often used in the food industry to thicken and stabilize products. It can be added to thicken a cosmetic product. It is difficult to work with since it does not fully dissolve in water.

Zinc Oxide (Flowers of Zinc) Used medicinally as an astringent, antiseptic, skin protective, encourages healing. Works as an antiperspirant. Zinc Oxide is a physical UV filter. Zinc oxide is a protective substance which can be used as a sun block. Zinc oxide provides near complete opacification to the sun’s rays. Several products containing this have wonderful protective properties against the sun, and should be used by people who are extraordinarily sun sensitive.